Thursday, February 3, 2011

How Medieval Garb Evolved With the Fashion Trend in the Renaissance

By Rebecca Coale


Running from the time period of 1200 through 1550, medieval garb was the primary clothing. Clothing for both genders was fairly simple in the early part of this period. A common type of medieval garb would be like a long tunic garment made of wool, and which was worn by both sexes. The most common difference was that women wore floor length gowns that had tighter sleeves than the similar over-garment worn by men.

This early medieval garb featured hats or hoods of some type for the men, while a married woman would also cover her head, usually either with a wimple or a linen veil. Unmarried ladies would advertise themselves as such by having no head covering and also wearing their long hair loose and flowing. For leg warmth, both sexes wore long cotton hose on the legs and pointed leather shoes were the norm for footwear.

Some time in the early 14th century, international trade began to flourish and it brought a much wider selection of textiles to the West. At the same time, a new class of tradesmen emerged and as a result, there was more experimentation and variety in medieval garb worn by both sexes. A large number of historians agree that this really the beginning of modern fashion when clothing was cut and sewn, and then by using buttons and lacing, emphasized the shape of the body. This time, the Noblemen were the first to challenge the old outdated style of medieval garb, and they began to shorter garments. They finally settled on a short hip length doublet with tight hose.

Women didn't alter their style of medieval garb greatly, as they continued to wear long gown dresses that were fitted to the hips, long-waisted, and then finally flared out, with also displaying long hanging sleeves. Eventually fashion shifted so married women didn't have to cover their heads and they either wrapped their hair around the head, or twisted it into a bun at the nape of the neck. Eventually the veil or the wimple that used to be commonplace was only seen on older women, nuns, or widows.

Medieval garb came into its own during the 15th century as more affluent individuals desiring to follow the latest fashion trends set by nobility, had more money to spend on clothing. Men's and women's basic styles of medieval garb changed very little, with the men continuing to wear the doublets and long hose, and the women wearing the long gown type dresses. However, the change that was more noticeable was the extravagance in the fabrics used along with more detailing.

Most women during this period would wear two gowns. One would be a long over gown over another under gown, which would be revealed at the neckline or through a split in their outer skirt. In reality, this particular style of medieval garb was worn in the previous century to some extent, but it really took off later on. Some people believe this style began popular to use garb that had long waists that were now considered out of fashion as opposed to throwing them away while displaying the new style of full high waists that was in. In some European countries, married women continued to wear elaborate head dresses, but in many of the warmer climates simply wearing uncovered twisted hair was a much more popular option.

The most popular fabric for the poor was wool because this particular fabric was both warmer, as well as cheap and easily available. Wool could also be woven into a variety of other fabrics such as velvet and broadcloth. In addition, wool could be dyed in rich colors to make the clothes look fancier and more expensive than they actually were. The nobility, however, used silk extensively as a way to display their wealth and position. Silk would be made to create silk brocades and silk velvet, and a variety of other silk-based fabrics to make exquisite medieval garb. Eventually, a process known as slashing was developed, which describes a practice where slits are cut into the outer clothing, allowing the bright colors of undergarments to show through. This style became the normal "in" for fashion in Medieval Europe during this time.




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